Minix U9-H won't start

u9 connected directly to TV first, audio is then fed from the TV to an AVR via the TV TOSLINK connection.
I am currently still using the FW007A firmware expecting a failure, but hoping for success. If the current firmware fails I would like to give the CE firmware a go, I have nothing to loose.
Although i am testing the firmware I am unsure if my fault is a firmware or hardware fault. Thanks for the help

Fingers crossed things stabilise this time :). (I can't recall if it was mentioned that the OTA system was currently offline to update a U9-H, (although it still worked for me when I re-flashed the device I was having issues with only a few months ago). I flashed with FW006 then OTA updated using the MINIX system update app to FW008.)

Presumably you're restricted by the number of available optical inputs for your particular AVR as well if you're using your TV to passthrough your audio from the U9-H?

Whilst it's not a given by any means, if you have another spare optical input on your AVR you could try a direct TOSLINK connection from your U9-H to your AVR. (It could help minimise potential audio issues such as correct AV sync, audio dropouts, etc.). It's highly unlikely it's a factor in this issue with your U9-H in this constant cycle of working fine for a while after re-flashing before getting completely stuck again. If available, a direct optical connection from your U9-H to the AVR may just yield better results :).

Some other things you could try/consider with a stock firmware image too....

1. Limit the number of additional apps you install initially, (i.e. keep things as simple as possible or as close to stock as possible for a while & see if this problem then stabilises). If the device seems to behave normally without any extra apps but then suddenly exhibits the same behaviour again after you start installing other apps, it may help narrow down a potential culprit.

When/if you do eventually install additional apps, add them one at a time & again wait for a while each time to see if everything remains stable before adding more. (I realise this could be restrictive for some time & it's ultimately a royal pain in the backside too, but it's better than the potential alternative ;).)

2. Do you have another SD card you can try/use? Or, could you run the device for a while without a SD card? Are you configuring the SD card to be removable storage or extending the internal memory? (For some reason you weren't able to re-flash the device with a certain SD card being in the slot. Again whilst unlikely, what if it's somehow contributing to the main problem, for example?)

As with 1, keep the system as simple as possible initially. If it still does the same thing all over again without the SD card, then that too could be discounted as a cause.

3. How do you usually configure the display resolution on the U9-H? Have you been leaving your U9-H on the default "auto resolution" setting, or have you been manually setting the maximum resolution capability of your TV? (Whichever method you've been using in the past before the system eventually gets stuck, use the opposite method.)

Do you also manually alter the colour space settings or leave them on auto too? (YCbCr 420/422/444, 8 bit/10 bit etc.)

4. Which HDMI CEC options (if any) do you have enabled on the U9-H? Do you rely on CEC?

It may help to disable all CEC options on the U9-H initially if you'd ordinarily use them. (Personally, I use CEC & it actually plays very well indeed with my particular Sony AVR & my Panny TV, but it can be problematic with other devices because each manufacturer implements their own versions. Again, it comes down to keeping it simple whilst you see if you can get this problem to stabilise.)

5. Anything else you can think of ultimately ;)!! Keep it simple. If you can stabilise the problem, start adding things back in one at a time then have another observation period after each change. Keep notes if you can.

Obviously the CE ROM is another option & it may well be worth trying should this problem continue to repeat. (Be aware that the upgrade to 7.1.2 can lose you certain functions or apps too. Fake WiFi isn't available, for example, as are some other options included with the stock ROM. I also lose the availability of some of my paid apps with 7.1.2 that work fine with 6.0.1 too. Obviously, this too is a trade off & it's completely subjective to individual requirements. If that isn't an issue for you & your problem repeats, as you've said you simply may have nothing to lose by at least trying 7.1.2 :).)

Don't forget to take a Kodi backup once you've got it all configured & squared away again ;). (Remember the Kodi backup add-on!! You can specify for the Kodi backup add-on to save the backups into the actual Kodi directory/folder on your SD card for safe keeping should your system get stuck & require flashing again. That'll at least save you having to reconfigure your entire Kodi setup from scratch each time if you use a lot of add-on's or your Kodi requires extensive configuration :). (Stick the SD card in just to take the backup then remove it again if testing 2 as listed above holds up or not too.))

Keep us updated :).
 
Thanks for the reply, curently U9 still working, stopped last time with no sd card inserted, no additional apps installed apart form Kodi. manually set resolution at 4k 60Hz, don't use CEC. will check the colour settings. I am keeping it simple with no additional apps, will continue to use with FW007A until/if it fails. I have used the U9 directly connected to AVR with my last TV (a 12 year old Sony), with the new panasonic OLED, I use the TV sound out to the AVR, I find I have less need to adjust the audio delay using this method. I will keep you informed if/when the unit stops again,
 
Thanks for the reply, curently U9 still working, stopped last time with no sd card inserted, no additional apps installed apart form Kodi. manually set resolution at 4k 60Hz, don't use CEC. will check the colour settings. I am keeping it simple with no additional apps, will continue to use with FW007A until/if it fails. I have used the U9 directly connected to AVR with my last TV (a 12 year old Sony), with the new panasonic OLED, I use the TV sound out to the AVR, I find I have less need to adjust the audio delay using this method. I will keep you informed if/when the unit stops again,

Hey dig,

You're welcome :)

OK :). I can understand your setup of directly connecting the U9-H to the TV & just using the existing TOSLINK from the TV to the AVR. Obviously, you're not using any HD audio formats so you wouldn't lose anything as far as audio quality is concerned either way :).

(The strange problem I had with one U9-H repeatedly doing the exact same thing was when that device was connected via an AVR (HDMI). With a direct connection to a TV it stopped doing it & hasn't done it since. I just wish I could have narrowed down the possible causes to help the small handful of users who seem to come across this problem, but there was never any discernable patterns or triggers, it just randomly got stuck at the splash screen. After 14 or 15 cycles it was becoming a royal pain to keep re-flashing & starting over so I gave up on working out a cause :(. Obviously, however, I have access to multiple U9-H's to easily swap them around which solved my problem but that's an option that others like yourself simply don't have unfortunately.)

Let's hope the direct connection to your TV rather than going via your AVR stops this problem so you can simply enjoy your U9-H without the worry that the next time you turn it on it locks up again!! BTW, I also I tried using FW006, FW007 & FW008 but that didn't make any difference either, it still did it with all three.

It would all be way above my head how it could possibly have any cause or effect, but the connection via the AVR was the only common link & once removed, problem solved. Stranger still, the other two U9-H's connected via the exact same cables & AVR inputs behave perfectly normally & as expected. It's a head scratcher, no doubt!!

Fingers are crossed the next time we hear from you all is still going well :).
 
Am finally seeing a pattern/common theme to this issue!! (It's just happened to me again, however, I've avoided a complete system wipe this time around :) ).....

For other users experiencing a similar issue.....

You may not necessarily need to re-flash & start from scratch. One of my U9-H's has just had this issue again & I was able to re-flash whilst keeping all existing settings, data & files completely intact :).

U9-H stuck at splash.jpg

1. Import the FW image of choice & connect the U9-H to the burning tool as normal.

2. Ensure the highlighted box as in the image above is the only choice/box checked & click start. (It still re-flashes the firmware but otherwise leaves all existing settings, files & data intact which could potentially save you HOURS of reconfiguration :).)

3. Run the device as normal. (It'll want to re-optimise all apps etc., once done hopefully you'll be straight back into the system again & everything will run normally once again.)

If it fails you've lost an extra 10 minutes & it's certainly worth trying given the alternative is obviously a complete system wipe :). (It's a long & complicated story but I've seen this particular issue 16 or 17 times now & I'm finally starting to see a pattern involving an AVR, & switching away to another source while Kodi is actively controlling frame rate switching as a potential cause. That in turn seems to nullify the device's ability to detect the correct resolution of the display & the device then just gets completely stuck at the initial splash screen.)

I can't believe I never actually thought to try this method before yesterday lol :rolleyes:o_O:oops::eek::sick:. Countless hours spent messing around starting over when a quicker fix was possibly available the whole time.

Hope it proves useful to others experiencing this issue :).
 
Am finally seeing a pattern/common theme to this issue!! (It's just happened to me again, however, I've avoided a complete system wipe this time around :) ).....

For other users experiencing a similar issue.....

You may not necessarily need to re-flash & start from scratch. One of my U9-H's has just had this issue again & I was able to re-flash whilst keeping all existing settings, data & files completely intact :).

View attachment 1502

1. Import the FW image of choice & connect the U9-H to the burning tool as normal.

2. Ensure the highlighted box as in the image above is the only choice/box checked & click start. (It still re-flashes the firmware but otherwise leaves all existing settings, files & data intact which could potentially save you HOURS of reconfiguration :).)

3. Run the device as normal. (It'll want to re-optimise all apps etc., once done hopefully you'll be straight back into the system again & everything will run normally once again.)

If it fails you've lost an extra 10 minutes & it's certainly worth trying given the alternative is obviously a complete system wipe :). (It's a long & complicated story but I've seen this particular issue 16 or 17 times now & I'm finally starting to see a pattern involving an AVR, & switching away to another source while Kodi is actively controlling frame rate switching as a potential cause. That in turn seems to nullify the device's ability to detect the correct resolution of the display & the device then just gets completely stuck at the initial splash screen.)

I can't believe I never actually thought to try this method before yesterday lol :rolleyes:o_O:oops::eek::sick:. Countless hours spent messing around starting over when a quicker fix was possibly available the whole time.

Hope it proves useful to others experiencing this issue :).

This solution helped!! Thank you!
 
Other than a different TV & HDMI cable, what else have you tried to remedy the problem?

Have you also tried re-flashing the firmware by following the simple option in post #44 above?

https://theminixforum.com/index.php?threads/minix-u9-h-wont-start.1707/page-3#post-17497

Having the same problem as everyone else.

My box suddenly died on me. It would show the Minix logo and then a blank screen. My receiver says no input received.

This happened before and I flashed it as recommended using firmware FW008.

It worked for a while, then died again.

Any ideas? Do I need to buy a new one?
 
Having the same problem as everyone else.

My box suddenly died on me. It would show the Minix logo and then a blank screen. My receiver says no input received.

This happened before and I flashed it as recommended using firmware FW008.

It worked for a while, then died again.

Any ideas? Do I need to buy a new one?

How long has it been since it last happened? Days, weeks, months, longer? (Obviously, if a longer period it could just be plain old bad luck & after you've reflashed again using the procedure above it may be fine from there on out.)

If it's a considerably shorter period, for example, I had a U9-H that was highly prone to doing this repeatedly under certain circumstances. Ultimately, it did it multiple times within a relatively short time period before I was forced to swap it around :(.

I realise it's a pain to need to do this again, but if you follow my instructions for flashing at the link above you'll at least retain all of your current/existing user settings, files, data, etc. & hopefully have the device running again immediately. All you can really do is then see if it repeats & how soon before it does first.

Having said that, if something has essentially become corrupted on the device & you didn't attempt a clean flash the first time around, then there's also the possibility that, that corruption is still present to cause it again. Before essentially writing the device off you really do need to try at least one clean flash & see what happens after that.

Over time, my original U9-H which was also connected via an AVR like yours ended up stuck in this cycle of operating absolutely flawlessly for a relatively short period before mysteriously glitching out & becoming completely stuck at the MINIX splash screen. (I have access to 3 x U9-H's so I was able to swap a couple around to end the repeating cycle but not before the original sorely tested my patience first. The "test" U9-H was also connected via the AVR but that one has never suffered with the same issue.) Nothing I tried ever resolved it & I repeatedly ended up clean flashing the original U9-H, (certainly over 15 instances). It repeated this cycle before it occurred to me to simply flash by erasing the bootloader only which at least kept everything else as it was without having to reconfigure from scratch. Of course, it was only a matter of time before it did it again anyway. Obviously this course of action was merely a repetitive reaction to the symptoms of the problem & it was never an actual cure or fix.

After I clean flashed & freshly configured the second U9-H, thankfully I haven't ever experienced this problem again since so there was definitely something going on with the original to cause this when in use with an AVR. (In turn, the glitchy U9-H was also clean flashed & has been in constant use directly connected to another TV & that also hasn't ever done it again since the switch around.)

The second common factor, although that was a whole lot harder to confirm with any certainty or even reproduce reliably was possibly the active use of the AFR feature in Kodi which at the time was set to change "on start/stop". If the device was rebooted it would essentially randomly nullify the display resolution setting it was supposed to output on boot == blanked display at the splash screen & a completely stuck U9-H. If you can do without it have a trial period with AFR disabled too & see if that is a positive contribution. (The recovery menu was also inaccessible due to this issue, so that couldn't be of any use at all either.) It wasn't an HDMI cabling issue in my case as the exact same cable is still in use to this day with the second U9-H. However, you could also try swapping out your cables if you happen to have spares just in case.

1. Some users this has happened to have reported being able to connect their U9-H to a second display & the device immediately booted normally. They simply set the device to a lower resolution & then just returned the device back to the original display. (If you're currently connected via an AVR, you could also try quickly powering down the TV, AVR & U9-H, pull the AVR's HDMI out of the TV & connect the U9-H directly to the same input just to see if it will successfully boot up that way. While you're trying this, also try the next step 2 below before you revert everything else back. Hook your AVR back up again normally after.)

2. A very small number were able to hear the system sounds despite the blank display, so turn up your volume, use your U9-H remote & you may possibly still hear the active system sounds scrolling etc. (As above, also try with a direct connection to the TV with the AVR out of the loop too.) They then worked out exactly how many blind presses they needed upon the d-pad to successfully navigate to & select another display resolution & voila, sorted.. (There are a couple of posts on the forum with precise instructions to follow to blind navigate to the display settings, you'll have to have a look around for those.)

3. Unfortunately, an additional minority like me were simply stuck, period! The only options were either a clean flash, or as I eventually worked out try re-flashing with a copy of the same firmware but just erase the bootloader instead. At least you can hopefully retain your existing setup/files that way, & immediately boot the device back to its original state afterwards.

4. If your device is still within its warranty period you could contact your reseller for a return or exchange. Obviously, either way it isn't normal behaviour for the device to repeatedly do this at all so you could also try emailing MINIX customer support to discuss this with them directly.

5. I haven't used it myself, but if you have a U9-H that's unfortunately prone to doing this with an AVR it might not be a bad idea to follow one of the TWRP tutorials available on the forum & backup your device that way. It'd still be pretty damn annoying if it repeats this cycle, but at least you could possibly recover via a TWRP backup(???)

(Probably a less desirable option).... Otherwise, I assume your AVR is HD audio capable which you use specifically to passthrough HD audio from your U9-H? If it isn't HD audio capable but does have the necessary capabilities you could consider connecting the U9-H directly to an HDMI input on the TV & simply allow all audio from the U9-H to come back down the HDMI ARC channel to the AVR that way instead. Alternatively, if your AVR has the capability connect it directly to the TV & use a TOSLINK cable for audio passthrough from the U9-H to the AVR.

See how that lot goes first & then you can consider what to do next if you're rapidly straight back to square one again.
 
How long has it been since it last happened? Days, weeks, months, longer? (Obviously, if a longer period it could just be plain old bad luck & after you've reflashed again using the procedure above it may be fine from there on out.)

If it's a considerably shorter period, for example, I had a U9-H that was highly prone to doing this repeatedly under certain circumstances. Ultimately, it did it multiple times within a relatively short time period before I was forced to swap it around :(.

I realise it's a pain to need to do this again, but if you follow my instructions for flashing at the link above you'll at least retain all of your current/existing user settings, files, data, etc. & hopefully have the device running again immediately. All you can really do is then see if it repeats & how soon before it does first.

Having said that, if something has essentially become corrupted on the device & you didn't attempt a clean flash the first time around, then there's also the possibility that, that corruption is still present to cause it again. Before essentially writing the device off you really do need to try at least one clean flash & see what happens after that.

Over time, my original U9-H which was also connected via an AVR like yours ended up stuck in this cycle of operating absolutely flawlessly for a relatively short period before mysteriously glitching out & becoming completely stuck at the MINIX splash screen. (I have access to 3 x U9-H's so I was able to swap a couple around to end the repeating cycle but not before the original sorely tested my patience first. The "test" U9-H was also connected via the AVR but that one has never suffered with the same issue.) Nothing I tried ever resolved it & I repeatedly ended up clean flashing the original U9-H, (certainly over 15 instances). It repeated this cycle before it occurred to me to simply flash by erasing the bootloader only which at least kept everything else as it was without having to reconfigure from scratch. Of course, it was only a matter of time before it did it again anyway. Obviously this course of action was merely a repetitive reaction to the symptoms of the problem & it was never an actual cure or fix.

After I clean flashed & freshly configured the second U9-H, thankfully I haven't ever experienced this problem again since so there was definitely something going on with the original to cause this when in use with an AVR. (In turn, the glitchy U9-H was also clean flashed & has been in constant use directly connected to another TV & that also hasn't ever done it again since the switch around.)

The second common factor, although that was a whole lot harder to confirm with any certainty or even reproduce reliably was possibly the active use of the AFR feature in Kodi which at the time was set to change "on start/stop". If the device was rebooted it would essentially randomly nullify the display resolution setting it was supposed to output on boot == blanked display at the splash screen & a completely stuck U9-H. If you can do without it have a trial period with AFR disabled too & see if that is a positive contribution. (The recovery menu was also inaccessible due to this issue, so that couldn't be of any use at all either.) It wasn't an HDMI cabling issue in my case as the exact same cable is still in use to this day with the second U9-H. However, you could also try swapping out your cables if you happen to have spares just in case.

1. Some users this has happened to have reported being able to connect their U9-H to a second display & the device immediately booted normally. They simply set the device to a lower resolution & then just returned the device back to the original display. (If you're currently connected via an AVR, you could also try quickly powering down the TV, AVR & U9-H, pull the AVR's HDMI out of the TV & connect the U9-H directly to the same input just to see if it will successfully boot up that way. While you're trying this, also try the next step 2 below before you revert everything else back. Hook your AVR back up again normally after.)

2. A very small number were able to hear the system sounds despite the blank display, so turn up your volume, use your U9-H remote & you may possibly still hear the active system sounds scrolling etc. (As above, also try with a direct connection to the TV with the AVR out of the loop too.) They then worked out exactly how many blind presses they needed upon the d-pad to successfully navigate to & select another display resolution & voila, sorted.. (There are a couple of posts on the forum with precise instructions to follow to blind navigate to the display settings, you'll have to have a look around for those.)

3. Unfortunately, an additional minority like me were simply stuck, period! The only options were either a clean flash, or as I eventually worked out try re-flashing with a copy of the same firmware but just erase the bootloader instead. At least you can hopefully retain your existing setup/files that way, & immediately boot the device back to its original state afterwards.

4. If your device is still within its warranty period you could contact your reseller for a return or exchange. Obviously, either way it isn't normal behaviour for the device to repeatedly do this at all so you could also try emailing MINIX customer support to discuss this with them directly.

5. I haven't used it myself, but if you have a U9-H that's unfortunately prone to doing this with an AVR it might not be a bad idea to follow one of the TWRP tutorials available on the forum & backup your device that way. It'd still be pretty damn annoying if it repeats this cycle, but at least you could possibly recover via a TWRP backup(???)

(Probably a less desirable option).... Otherwise, I assume your AVR is HD audio capable which you use specifically to passthrough HD audio from your U9-H? If it isn't HD audio capable but does have the necessary capabilities you could consider connecting the U9-H directly to an HDMI input on the TV & simply allow all audio from the U9-H to come back down the HDMI ARC channel to the AVR that way instead. Alternatively, if your AVR has the capability connect it directly to the TV & use a TOSLINK cable for audio passthrough from the U9-H to the AVR.

See how that lot goes first & then you can consider what to do next if you're rapidly straight back to square one again.

Thank you for the fantastic and detailed reply. Very much appreciated on my end. Sorry I’m a bit late in responding. Been swamped with work. Haven’t had time to look into the problem.

I have two units as well. One hooked up to the AVR and another directly to the TV. Interestingly, both failed at around the same time. A clean reflash worked and both sets were up again.

One has continued to work and the other failed (problem I highlighted in my earlier post). I did a clean reflash and the problematic one has been working since.

One thing I did do was to remove the SD Cards from both. Maybe a corrupted card or more likely the sets’ readers were causing the issue.

Fingers crossed that both sets continue to work well.

Thanks again for the advice.
 
Thank you for the fantastic and detailed reply. Very much appreciated on my end. Sorry I’m a bit late in responding. Been swamped with work. Haven’t had time to look into the problem.

I have two units as well. One hooked up to the AVR and another directly to the TV. Interestingly, both failed at around the same time. A clean reflash worked and both sets were up again.

One has continued to work and the other failed (problem I highlighted in my earlier post). I did a clean reflash and the problematic one has been working since.

One thing I did do was to remove the SD Cards from both. Maybe a corrupted card or more likely the sets’ readers were causing the issue.

Fingers crossed that both sets continue to work well.

Thanks again for the advice.

No worries & you're welcome :).

It's possible it could be an issue with an SD card but extremely odd that such an issue would only cause this problem when the same device was connected via an AVR but not a TV. (The good & the aforementioned glitching U9-H's in my case both still have the original SD cards in them to this day, & certainly for a long while both contained identical data too. The only obvious difference being the specific contents of the actual "Android" directory the system creates on the SD by default, and/or a DCIM, or Lost dir etc. too.)

Try error checking the SD cards from a PC and/or shift your important data/media off, reformat the cards in question & move the data back on to them if you happen to need them in the U9-H. (Or swap some cards around if you have spares but obviously that may not help if it is the slots/readers themselves.)

It's also not unheard of for a specific brand, type or class of card to be absolutely fine in most devices they're used in that can be problematic or even adversely affect another specific device, including potentially causing issues like this. If you're perfectly happy to do without the original cards or suspect they could be involved then leave them out to see if this happens again in their absence.

If that does appear to be the case & this issue seems to clear itself up after removing the cards, if you get the chance in the future please report back as it could be helpful to other users who may experience this issue too. (Thanks in advance ;).)

Otherwise, fingers crossed indeed, & hopefully enjoy a trouble free U9-H from here on out ;).
 
Hi all, just scanning through this thread but has anyone experienced a blank screen only? I have borrowed a Neo U9-H, I already have a U1 which works fine. When I power on the U9, all I receive is a blank screen. Can anyone enlighten me?
 
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I have had a year's worth of U9 use with FW007 with no problems. Yesterday the U9 booted normally, showed correct home screen, but then failed unexpectedly.
The PSU failed and I suspect took the u9 with it, or vice versa, although this scenario unlikely as box shows operating lights.
I salvaged a regulated 5v phone supply and reconnected, blue light on, red light at SPDIF connector. The U9 showed nothing on the screen (blank) even when powering off and performing the 6 second reset, so I attempted a reflash with the USB burning tool.
The unit is no longer recognised by the USB burning tool and I am using the same PC, "long" plugged cable and software I used to burn FW007 last time, I tried a newer version of the burn tool, still not recognised by U9, turned off all anti virus, tried different USB ports on PC, still no change.
I have a T95Z box which verified the TV and HDMI cable as ok, I have done everything I reread here, I am out of ideas, help.
 
You need a 3000ma 5V center pole positive for the system to power up, led lights just show in the case you mention that the circuit is undamaged.. Do not plug random power supply's into your U9-H as it is very like one will destroy it .. Power supply failure was a few years ago an issue, but that was noted and rectified very quickly by Minix. There are power supplies that meet the requirements. The U9-H runs FW8 which resolved several issues and works very well. I doubt if you have killed the U9-H. .. but that is a possibility ... so a positive view get a power supply and you're back in business
 
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Back to my occassional problem of display becoming blank after adroid splash screen appears, I have used 007 firmware since my last encounter with this problem (Jan2020) and it has been good up until now. The current problem I have (besides no disply) is I cannot get into the boot menu, regardless of the length of time the start button is pressed, this stops me using the USB burning tool as this step is required before the burn process, I suspect it is the "resolution" problem that others have had, I have tried the remote trick, no system sounds, no success, using another hdmi lead and monitor, no SD card and pretty much everything i have read here, can anyone suggest something worth trying?
 
Back to my occassional problem of display becoming blank after adroid splash screen appears, I have used 007 firmware since my last encounter with this problem (Jan2020) and it has been good up until now. The current problem I have (besides no disply) is I cannot get into the boot menu, regardless of the length of time the start button is pressed, this stops me using the USB burning tool as this step is required before the burn process, I suspect it is the "resolution" problem that others have had, I have tried the remote trick, no system sounds, no success, using another hdmi lead and monitor, no SD card and pretty much everything i have read here, can anyone suggest something worth trying?
with the system powered up as normal just try removing the hdmi lead from the back of the u9, and then plug it back in again after a few seconds
 
thanks pusb87, I have tried that to no avail, as the android splash is disappearing I can see the resolution changing to a very course display before the blank screen, all within a second. When i tried the HDMI cable disconnect I saw the resolution of the TV/Minix appear on the tv screen (720p 60Hz) for a second before the screen when blank again, no sign of any video from Minix during this process. Given that I cannot get the recovery screen to appear, the box seems to be unrepairable, any thoughts appreciated.
 
The current problem I have (besides no disply) is I cannot get into the boot menu, regardless of the length of time the start button is pressed, this stops me using the USB burning tool as this step is required before the burn process,
Have you actually tried connecting to a PC to see if you can flash the device?

The fact you can't get or possibly see the recovery menu doesn't necessarily mean you can't use the burning tool!
 
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